Button stitching machine



J ly W67 M. PEBEWsEM ETAL 3,329,131

BUTTQN STITCHING MACHINE Filed Oct. 28, 1964 INVENTORS MATHIAS PEDERSEN ROBERT J. COOK A TORNEY United States Patent 3,329,111 BUTTON STITCHING MACHINE Mathias Pedersen, Valley Stream, and Robert J. Cook, Westbury, N.Y., assignors to American Machine at Foundry Company, a corporation of New Jersey Filed Oct. 28, 1964, Ser. No. 407,083 14 Claims. (Cl. 112-110) This invention rel-ates to stitching machines and more particularly to mechanism for use in machines for and method for stitching or sewing buttons or like fastening devices to articles such as mens and womens coats and other articles of clothing and other selected types of goods.

The invention relates to stitching machines of the type disclosed in Patterson et al. Patent 2,739,550; Johnson et a1. Patent 3,132,613 granted May 12, 1964; Johnson et al. Patent 3,121,411, granted Feb. 18, 1964; Pedersen Patent 3,125,046, issued Mar. 17, 1964, and copending Johnson application Ser. No. 296,039, filed July 18, 1963, now Patent 3,236,200.

The preferred technique used in stitching buttons and like fastening devices to material is one in which each button is held by continuous loops of thread passing through the garment and button holes such that it is supported by a post above the surface of the garment. The post comprises the attaching loops of thread encircled by wrappings of thread which are secured against unwinding by locking stitches passing back and forth through the wrappings and the attaching loops of thread.

In machines of the type referred to hereinabove, posts are formed by winding or wrapping thread about the loops of thread attaching a button to the work. In the course of the wrapping operation it is customary to apply tension to the thread as the windings are made. This is effected by the passage of the needle first in one direction along one side of the loops of the thread connecting a button to the work and then, as a result of the movement of the table which supports the work and the button, in the opposite direction to complete the winding operation. This movement of the table and needle takes place, as disclosed in the above referred to patents, until the predetermined number of windings have been formed about the loops of thread connecting a button to the work.

It has been found that when tension is applied to the post it tends to flex from or bend out of proper alignment with the center line of the button i.e., out of the desired right angular aligned relationship with respect to the plane of the button and the surface of the work. When this condition occurs the needle will not pass upwardly through the center of the post and the lock stitches produced in the post are not firmly held in place. In addition, the needle has a tendency to deflect to one side thereof thereby increasing the probability of early needle breakage. Needle deflection is due to unequal side forces from the tightly packed threads within the wrapped post which connects a button to the work. In order to prevent this condition from arising, the instant invention provides a novel method for, and means in the form of a thread supporting or controlling device for maintaining the thread being wrapped about the loops of thread connecting a button to the work in a line tangent to one side of the post. This changes the direction of pull of the tensioned thread under the action of the thread tensioning means so that there is substantially no flexing of the post to one side. Because of this novel procedure, and means employed for effecting this result, the needle will at all times be passed through the center of the post during the formation of locking stitches, and therefore danger of breakage of the needle is substantially or entirely eliminated and an extremely satisfactory post, closely simulating hand stitching results.

When the needle is moved upwardly through the post comprising tightly packed and wrapped loops of thread the post tends to bow upwardly as it is penetrated by the needle. In accordance with the invention novel means are provided which stabilize or support the post in such manner that its longitudinal axis is maintained in a substantially straight line relationship at all times during the lock stitch forming operations. This mechanism and the method of stabilizing the position of the post, therefore, contribute to the formation of very satisfactorily stitched buttons, and also the elimination of needle breakage.

The mechanism which prevents upward bowing of a post connecting a button to the work during lock stitch formation also includes means embodying the invention which operates to locate the captive end of the thread on one side of the button post during the stitching operation so that the thread is positioned for correct wrapping about the loops of thread which will form a part of the post, and insures also the smooth, consistent pick-up of the thread during the button stitching operation.

The invention further comprises the novel method of handling and controlling the thread in the course of forming the post of thread which attaches a button to the work such that its longitudinal axis is maintained in proper alignment during the steps of wrapping the loops of thread and also during the formation of the locking stitches which secure the wrappings against unwinding.

It is a further object of the invention to provide a novel method of forming a post of thread connecting a button to the work including the steps of controlling the position of the post during the wrapping of a predetermined number of windings thereabout and the formation of locking stitches which prevent the wrappings from unwinding in such manner that the locking stitches are located properly centrally of the post, and danger of breakage of needles is practically eliminated.

The invention further comprises the provision of a novel method wherein during the formation of the post of thread which connects a button to the work, the post is prevented from bowing or arching as wrappings of thread about the loops of thread which connect the button to the work and the locking stitches are formed.

It is an object of the invention to provide novel means for insuring the proper attachment of buttons to articles such as mens and womens clothing in which the post supporting the button on the work is always properly disposed with respect to the underside of the button and the work to which it is attached.

It is a further object of the invention to provide novel means for preventing deflection of the loops of thread and thread windings forming the post which attaches a button to the work, thereby producing an extremely satisfactorily stitched button, and practically eliminating danger of needle breakage on the machine of which this mechanism forms a part.

The invention further consists in novel mechanism for controlling the position of thread when it is tensioned during the process of enwrapment thereof about loops of thread connecting button to selected work and also to insure the proper location of locking stitches in the resulting post thus formed.

It is an additional object of the invention to provide mechanism for preventing bowing of the post of thread connecting a button to the work when the needle penetrates the loop and passes therethrough during the formation of locking threads, thereby insuring proper location of the locking threads in the post and minimizing breakage of needles.

The invention further comprises novel means for locating the thread with respect to the nndersurface of a button in order to insure that wrapping of thread about the loops of thread connecting the button to such selected work will always be properly arranged and thereby satisfactorily stitched buttons will result.

With these and other objects not specifically mentioned in view, the invention consists in certain combinations and constructions which will be fully described hereinafter, and then set forth specifically in the claims hereunto appended.

In the accompanying drawings which form a part of this specification and in which like characters of reference indicate the same or like elements:

FIGURE 1 is an isometric view showing the preferred embodiment of the invention;

FIGURE 2 is a side view of the thread locating and loop supporting mechanism forming a part of the invention;

FIGURE 3 is a front view showing the upper thread support and the lower thread support in their operative positions;

FIGURE 4 is a view illustrating the position of the upper thread support during the formation of locking stitches; and

FIGURE 5 is a side view of the structure shown in FIGURE 4.

Referring to the drawings which illustrate a preferred embodiment of the invention as incorporated in and practiccd with machines of the type disclosed in patents and applications referred to hereinabove, it will be seen that there are two opposed needle bars 2 and 4 which pass a threaded needle N, having at least one pointed end, back and forth relative to the work W and table T so as to form the desired wrapping stitches about the loops of thread L connecting a button B to work W and the locking stitches which secure the wrapped windings of thread against unwinding.

Needle bars 2 and 4 are mounted in brackets 6 (only one of which is partially shown) and actuated in the same manner as disclosed in Patterson Patent 2,739,550 and Pedersen Patent 3,125,046. The operation of these needle bars is timed so that the desired button stitching operations, which include the post winding and lock stitch formation, occur during the movement of table T to the directions shown by the arrows in FIGURE 1 so as not only to attach a button by loops of thread L to work W, but also to effect the formation of the necessary winding and locking stitches. The mechanism for effecting the necessary movements of table T, button chuck C, and needle bars 2 and 4 is essentially the same as that disclosed in the Patterson et al., Pedersen, and Johnson et al. patents. Since it forms no specific part of the present invention further disclosure and description thereof is omitted in the interest of brevity. Suffice it to say, however, that table T is moved in proper timed relationship with respect to needle bars 2 and 4 in the direction of the arrows shown in FIGURE 1 in forming the desired wrapping stitches and locking stitches in wrapping and completing the formation of a post P, as shown in FIGURE 5.

The invention comprises the provision of a lower post support mechanism designated generally 9, which coacts with an upper support device described hereinafter in providing means for maintaining proper post alignment while wrapping the post and placing the required lock stitches therethrough. A feature of this mechanism is the manner in which it operates to locate the captive end of the thread on one side of the button post i.e., left side as viewed in FIGURES 1, 3 and 4, when lower needle bar 2 is in its full down position. This feature assures that the thread. will be in correct position for wrapping of the post and also that there will be a smooth consistent pick-up by hook 10 on one end of tension rod 8. This rod is pivotally connected adjacent its other end to a lever 12 swingably mounted on a shaft 14 which is suitably supported in the machine frame. A cam follower 18 is mounted on lever 12, which engages a cam 20 mounted on a cam shaft 22 to effect the desired reciprocation of tension rod 8. Since rod 8 is essentially the same in construction and operation as rod 353 in Johnson et a1. Patent 3,121,411, and its 4 specific construction does not constitute a part of the present invention, further additional description and showing thereof is omitted.

Lower post support mechanism 9 comprises a support finger 24 which in the illustrated embodiment, forms part of a bracket 26 adjustably mounted on one arm 28 of a lever 30 pivotally supported on a stud shaft 32 which is suitably mounted in bracket 34 on frame F of the machine. Bracket 26 is provided with elongated slots 36 through which extend adjusting screws 38 used to adjust the position of finger 24 on lever 30, as desired. Lever 30 is provided with a cam follower 40 tracking a cam 42 mounted on cam shaft 22. Spring 52 having one end attached to a pin carried by lever 30 and its other end fixed to shaft 14 maintains cam follower 40 in tracking engagement with cam 42. Cam follower 18 is held against cam 20 by spring 13 having one end attached to rod 8 and its other end secured to frame F (not shown).

Shaft 22 is driven in proper timed relation to shaft 44 and the other operating parts of the machine in any suitable manner (not shown) in order to move finger 24 into and out of engagement with captive thread portion X, or the position shown in FIGURES 1 and 3 in order to dispose thread portion X in the position shown in these figures. It will be appreciated that the movement of finger 24 into its operative position is in response to the rotation of shaft 22 and cam 42 thereon by means of the mechanism described hereinabove, and that this movement of finger 24 is in proper timed relationship with the operations of tension bar 8 and lower thread puller arm 48. In the embodiment of the invention disclosed herein shaft 22 is rotated at the rate of twentyfour (24) revolutions for each revolution of shaft 44, or during each complete stitching cycle of the machine. The number of revolutions of shaft 22 could, of course, be varied if desired depending upon the number of wrapping stitches which are required for a particular button attachment. Shaft 44 is driven in the same manner as corresponding shaft 44 disclosed in Pedersen Patent 3,125,046.

When a stiff, tightly wound button post is to be produced, the tension necessary for the tight windings is applied by tension rod 8 (see FIGURE 1). This applied tension tends to flex or pull the loops of thread L connecting button B to the work during the formation of wrapping stitches, and the incomplete post resulting from the wrapping of thread thereabout out of proper alignment with the centerline of the button. When needle N does not pass up through the center of post P, lock stitches produced are not firmly held in place and the needle has a tendency to deflect to the left from the proper path of travel shown in FIGURE 4, which increases the probability of early needle breakage.

Lower post support finger 24 maintains the proper alignment of the post to receive the locking stitches by providing a surface in a line tangent to the left side of the post which changes the direction of the pull of the tensioned thread on the post so that there is no flexing of the post to the side or from that shown in FIGURE 3. It also locates captive thread portion X on one side of the post i.e., the left side as viewed in FIGURES 1 and 3, which poistions the thread for correct wrapping or winding about loops of thread L in forming the post, and insures smooth, consistent pick-up of the thread by hook 10 of rod 8.

Due to the engagement of the thread in the manner shown in FIGURES 1 and 3, the thread between the lower support finger 24 and post P is maintained in the position described while hook 10 of tension rod 8 continues to exert tension on the thread as shown, at which time also lower thread puller 46 on thread puller lever 48 is pulling the loose end of the thread and disposing it on an arcuate thread supporting surface (not shown) in the same manner as disclosed in Johnson et al. Patent 3,132,613. Thus, due to the provision of this novel mechanism there is lever 84 where it is encircled no flexing of post P to one side -i.e., to the right as viewed in FIGURES 1 and 3, during the formation of locking stitches. Therefore needle N can pass upwardly through the center of the post, the lock stitches produced are firmly held in place, needle breakage is practically eliminated and an extremely satisfactory post is produced.

The operation of lower post support mechanism 9 is such that finger 24 is moved by cam 42 into operative relationship with the captive portion X of thread when lower needle bar 2 is in the low portion of a stitching cycle, or as shown in the several figures of the drawings. However, before needle bar 2 starts in its upward pass cam follower 40 runs off the high portion of cam 40 and spring 52 effects the return of finger 24 and its supporting lever 30 to their inoperative or dwell positions.

The invention also includes mechanism for and the novel step of preventing upward bowing or flexing of the post connecting a button to the work during the formation of the lock stitches which complete the post formation and prevent unwinding of the wrapping threads. This mechanism, designated generally 54 works in conjunction with lower post support mechanism 9 to support a post P against upward movement and guide needle N as it passes through the center of a post P. In addition upper post support mechanism 54 includes a thread positioning finger 56 which acts to position the thread for the first wrap in forming a post after completion of the 'last connecting loop through the work.

Referring to the drawings, mechanism 54 comprises an arm 56 provided at one end with a foot 58 formed with an opening 60, such as spaced walls 61 of a V- notch, through which the needle can pass without obstruction when foot 58 rests adjacent the upper portion of post P, as shown in the several figures of the drawings. The other end of arm 56 (FIGURE 1) forms an integral part of mounting bracket 62 having opposed slots 64 in the ends thereof by means of which it can be adjustably attached by screws 66 to bracket 68 fixed to shaft 70 journalled in suitable bearing lugs 72 of bracket 74 suitably attached to table T of the machine for movement therewith. Also attached to shaft 70 is a lever 76 which supports stud shaft 78 on which an elongated cam follower 80 is pivotally mounted. Cam follower 80 tracks cam slot 82 formed in the free end of lever 84 pivotally supported in bracket 86 suitably mounted on frame F of the machine.

As illustrated herein, cam follower 80 is rectangular in cross section and has a loose sliding movement in cam slot 82 not only during the movement of table T when the machine is stitching a button to the work but also during the rocking motion of lever 84 as it is moved upwardly and downwardly by cam '87 on shaft 44 during the' thread locating and lock stitch forming portions of the machine cycle. Lever 84 is moved upwardly in response to the travel of cam follower 88 mounted on the free end of lever 90 pivotally supported in bracket 86. As shown in FIGURE 1, lever 90 is provided with a pivoted block 92 in which one end of stud 94 is adjustably threaded. The other end of stud 94 extends through and beneath by a washer 96. One end of a spring 98 which encircles stud 94 bears against washer 96. The other end of this spring presses against a locknut combination 100 threaded on stud 94. The normal operating position of cam follower 88 relative to lever 84 is set by means of lock-nut combination 102 on stud 94 at a desired adjusted position, such as shown in FIG- URE 1.

Cam portion H1 of cam 87 actuates arm 56 and upper post support or foot 58 during the placement of three locking stitches through post P. Cam portion H2 operates arm 56 and upper post support 58 after the last stitch connecting a button B to work W has been placed in the coat or suit material in order to allow thread control finger 104, which is carried on the free end of arm 56 adjacent post support 58, to press the thread against the upper undersurface of a button B (see FIGURE 2) in position for the first wrap to be made in forming the post P. In operation, when cam portions H1 or H2 raise lever 90, [lever 84 is raised therewith due to the connection therebetween at 92, 94. Elevation of lever 84 will rock lever 76 in a counterclockwise direction as viewed in FIGURE 1 through connection 80, 82. This will cause rotation of shaft 70, which in turn will cause downward movement of arm 56. Inward movement of arm 56 is caused by movement of table T.

A set screw 106 threadably mounted in bracket 68 can be adjusted to limit the inward movement of foot 58 to a desired operative position, as shown in FIGURES 1 and 2.

What we claim is:

1. A method of maintaining a post of thread, which post includes a plurality of loops of thread connecting a button to work and a plurality of wrappings of thread about said loops of thread, in a plane substantially normal to the plane of the button during the formation thereof, said method comprising the steps of: applying a tensioning force to said thread as it is being wrapped about said loops of thread to tightly wrap said loops, and during the tensioning of said thread imparting a force to a limited portion of said thread in an opposite direction to the tensioning force applied to said thread to prevent flexing of said loops of thread forming said post in the direction of said tensioning force.

2. The method defined in claim 1 further including the steps of forming locking stitches in said post of thread and preventing upward movement of said post of thread out of alignment with said work and underside of said button during the formation of said locking stitches.

3. A method of forming a post of thread between a button and work, which post includes a plurality of continuous loops of thread substantially perpendicular to said button and a plurality of wrappings of thread about said continuous loops of thread, said wrappings being formed by repeatedly passing a threaded needle first in one direction along one side of said loops of thread and then in the opposite direction along the other side of said loops of thread, said method being performed in such a manner that the post remains perpendicular to said work and said button and comprising the steps of: tensioning said thread during each passing of said needle in said first-named direction, maintaining a portion of said thread in a position substantially tangential to said loops during each tensioning of said thread to prevent flexing or bowing of said loops of thread out of said substantially perpendicular relationship with said button, and forming a plurality of locking stitches in said loops of thread and wrappings of thread.

4. The invention defined in claim 3 including the step of supporting said thread wrapped loops of thread comprising said post against flexing during the formation of each locking stitch in said post.

5. The invention defined in claim 4 including pressing a portion of the thread against the undersurface of said button after the completion of the last of the stitches forming said loops of thread connecting said button to said work to thereby position said thread in proper relation to said loops prior to the formation of the first wrapping of thread thereabout.

6. A method of maintaining a post of thread, which post includes a plurality of loops of thread connecting a 'button to work and a plurality of relatively tight wrappings of thread about said loops of thread, in a plane substantially perpendicular to said button during the formation thereof, said method including the steps of: stabilizing said loops of thread, concurrently with the formation of each of said wrappings of thread, against flexing out of said substantially perpendicular relationship with said button, and securing said wrappings against unwinding.

7. The invention defined in claim 6 wherein said step of securing said wrappings against unwinding comprises forming a plurality of locking stitches in said loops of thread and wrappings and said step of stabilizing said loops of thread insures the location of each locking stitch substantially centrally in said loops of thread and wrappmgs.

8. In a method of attaching buttons to work, wherein a button is connected thereto by a plurality of continuous loops of thread formed by passing a needle threaded with a predetermined length of thread having a loose and a fixed end through said work and holes in said button, and wherein the loose end of thread is pulled through said work during the formation of each stitch, and Wherein a predetermined number of wrappings of thread are applied about said loops of thread to form a post, the combination of steps comprising: supporting said button in a plane substantially perpendicular to said loops of thread joining said button to said work, positioning a portion of the thread adjacent the underside of said button to locate said thread for formation of the first of said wrappings about said loops of thread, preventing substantial movement of said loops of thread out of said substantially perpendicular planar relationship with said button during the formation of said wrappings, and securing said wrappings against unwinding.

9. The method defined in claim 8 wherein the securing of said warppings against unwinding comprises forming a plurality of locking stitches passing through the post formed by said loops and said wrappings, and stabilizing said post in said substantially perpendicular planar relationship with said button during the formation of said locking stitches to insure the location of thread forming said locking stitches substantially centrally in said post.

10. In a button stitching machine having a work supporting table, means for supporting a button and work to which a button is to be stitched, means for moving said table to locate said work and button in stitching positions in conformity with a prescribed stitching pattern, opposed needle bars for passing a needle having at least one point and an eye intermediate its ends threaded with a thread having a fixed and a loose end back and forth in forming loops of thread attaching said button to said work, and in forming wrappings of thread about said loops of thread to produce a post supporting said button in spaced relation relative to said work and to form locking stitches securing said wrappings against unwinding, the combination of elements comprising: means for tensioning said thread during the formation of each wrapping of thread about said loops to tighten said wrappings about said loops, and means engaging a portion of said thread being tensioned between said tensioning means and said loops of thread about which said wrapping is being formed to stabilize said loops of thread against flexing in the direction of the force exerted by said tensioning means.

11. The invention defined in claim 10 wherein said means for tensioning said thread comprises a tensioning rod having a hook engaging said thread during the formation of each wrapping about said loops, operating means for said tensioning rod, a support finger, means for intermittently moving said support finger in timed relation with the movement of said needle bars and table into engagement with said portion of said thread held by said tensioning member and said loops of thread.

12. The invention defined in claim 10, including pressing means movable into engagement with said loops of thread connecting said button to said work and said wrappings of thread thereabout to prevent movement there of out of a plane normal to the work during each movement of said needle therethrough in forming a looking stitch, whereby said locking stitches are substantially centralized in the resulting post of thread supporting said button stitched to said Work.

13. The invention defined in claim 12, wherein said pressing means comprises a foot having a needle passage slot engaging the side of said loops of thread and wrappings of thread thereabout opposite the point of penetration of said needle, and means for moving said foot into operative position relative to the post comprised of thread, wrappings and locking stitches being formed.

14. The invention defined in claim 12, including an operating arm supporting said pressing means, a thread positioning finger carried by said arm adjacent said pressing means, and means for moving said arm just prior to the formation of the first of said wrappings about the loops of thread joining said button to said work to cause said finger to press a portion of said thread against said button to locate said thread in position for wrapping about said loops.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,391,378 12/1945 Avis l12110 2,739,550 3/1956 Patterson et a1 112-1 10 3,121,411 2/1964 Johnson et al 112110 3,125,046 3/1964 Pedersen 112-110 3,132,613 5/1964 Johnson et al. l12l10 3,236,200 2/1966 Johnson 112-1l0 PATRICK D. LAWSON, Primary Examiner.

JORDAN FRANKLIN, Examiner.

G. H. KRIZMANICH, Assistant Examiner. 

10. IN A BUTTON STITCHING MACHINE HAVING A WORK SUPPORTING TABLE, MEANS FOR SUPPORTING A BUTTON AND WORK TO WHICH A BUTTON IS TO BE STITCHED, MEANS FOR MOVING SAID TABLE TO LOCATE SAID WORK AND BUTTON IN STITCHING POSITIONS IN CONFORMITY WITH A PRESCRIBED STITCHING PATTERN, OPPOSED NEEDLE BARS FOR PASSING A NEEDLE HAVING AT LEAST ONE POINT AND AN EYE INTERMEDIATE ITS ENDS THREADED WITH A THREAD HAVING A FIXED AND A LOOSE END BACK AND FORTH IN FORMING LOOPS OF THREAD ATTACHING SAID BUTTON TO SAID WORK, AND IN FORMING WRAPPINGS OF THREAD ABOUT SAID LOOPS OF THREAD TO PRODUCE A POST SUPPORTING SAID BUTTON IN SPACED RELATION RELATIVE TO SAID WORK AND TO FORM LOCKING STITCHES SECURING SAID WRAPPINGS AGAINST UNWINDING, THE COMBINATION OF ELEMENTS COMPRISING: MEANS FOR TENSIONING SAID THREAD DURING THE FORMATION OF EACH WRAPPING OF THREAD ABOUT SAID LOOPS TO TIGHTEN SAID WRAPPINGS ABOUT SAID LOOPS, AND MEANS ENGAGING A PORTION OF SAID THREAD BEING TENSIONED BETWEEN SAID TENSIONING MEANS AND SAID LOOPS OF THREAD ABOUT WHICH SAID WRAPPING IS BEING FORMED TO STABILIZE SAID LOOPS OF THREAD AGAINST FLEXING IN THE DIRECTION OF THE FORCE EXERTED BY SAID TENSIONING MEANS. 